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Our News
Land of the magnificent snow leopard
As I started descending down the pass, we only came across boulders and dried shrubs. What does the elusive wild cat feed on? There were no signs of life. The carnivore is known to survive on blue sheep, marmot, snow cock, partridge and at time on yaks. Snow leopards are a species in peril, the IUCN Red List designates the snow leopard as vulnerable because of habitat degradation, prey depletion, conflict with humans, poaching and climate change. Without protection, this magnificent species could face extinction in the near future.
Mud, mist and rain! Would you dare take on one of the most difficult treks in Bhutan during monsoon? The frequent gust of cold mountain wind lashing on your face as the umbrella, an extension of your numb and frozen hand, barely keeps you dry.
There are only a few seconds to capture the scenic mountains or the freshly sprouting rhododendrons and dewdrop bearing juniper leaves with the mist rolling in fervently and wrapping up all there is to see. You sometimes wonder, if through the mist a white, furry being with piercing eyes might pounce on you. You are after all, in the land of the snow leopard.
A drizzling start
September 26, 2024: At Drana Dingkha in Haa, a temple, an empty hut, and drenched prayer flags opened to a narrow path covered under thick bushes. We were on the verge of starting a two-day trek to Nub Tshonapata lake.
The motor road ends at Drana Dingkha, about 30 minutes drive from Haa town. While we waited for our pony to arrive, two colleagues from our group visted the nearby temple to offer prayers for good weather.
Seven hours later, their prayers unanswered, we reached Womji, our first camp. The first three hours we walked under the pine and broadleaf forest canopy, protected from the rain and cold wind, after which we were out in the open and beyond the tree line. The fresh scent of the juniper and rhododendron accompanied us throughout. Occasionally we chatted, making small talks and sharing stories, and at other times we walked in lulled silence and in deep contemplation.
Snow leopard, where art thou?
On the second day, as the winds grew stronger and colder, we reached the third pass of the day. A pile of stones stacked in shape of a stupa, a common sight in most passes, greeted us. An out-of-place signboard stood near the stone stupa.
The information on the board read that the trail is part of the sacred landscape of Eastern Himalayas aka the snow leopard landscape feeding into the larger Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot. The Indo-Burma transboundary landscape is one of the ten biodiversity hotspots of the world. The Nub Tshonapata trekking trail is under the Jigme Khesar Strict Nature Reserve, one of the ten protected areas in the Bhutan.
was low, but there was throughout the trek, a lingering excitement teasing out hope to spot one. At times I imagined there was a snow leopard camouflaged among the rocks and boulders. It would have been a humbling experience coming across a magnificent species such as the snow leopard. But it is an elusive, solitary and nocturnal creature for which it is rightly called the Ghost of the Himalayas. There was comfort in the fact that I have seen them in the camera trap photos and videos shared by park officials. That in itself is an experience worth being grateful for, as grateful as I am to be living in a country where wildlife and nature is nurtured, respected and revered.
As I started descending down the pass, we only came across boulders and dried shrubs. What does the elusive wild cat feed on? There were no signs of life. The carnivore is known to survive on blue sheep, marmot, snow cock, partridge and at time on yaks. Snow leopards are a species in peril, the IUCN Red List designates the snow leopard as vulnerable because of habitat degradation, prey depletion, conflict with humans, poaching and climate change. Without protection, this magnificent species could face extinction in the near future.
In Bhutan, snow leopards roam the alpine meadows, and the highest numbers are found in the Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Park followed by Wangchuck Centennial National Park. Globally there are 4,000-6,000 individuals. Bhutan has 134 individuals according to the second national snow leopard survey (2022-23) carried out by Department of Forests and Park Services with support from WWF-Bhutan and Bhutan for Life. This is an increase from 96 recorded during the first national snow leopard survey in 2016-17. The feline species is one of the 11 wild cats found in Bhutan, contributing to our country’s rich biodiversity alongside species like the Bengal tiger, clouded leopard, Asiatic golden cat, and Pallas’ cat.
The lakeside glory
As we inched closer to the lake, the clouds hovering above the lake started to clear soberly, almost as if the weather agreed to present the lake as gift after the long and tiring hike. It was a feast for the eyes, the lake spanning the size of four or five archery ranges. The water reflected the evening sky above and the light drizzle that persisted could not dampen our mood. It was a blissful sight and the stories that shaped the culture and tradition of communities in Haa, Paro and Thimphu since the 13th century played in my mind.
The story
Here is one story kept alive through generations, deeply ingrained in the culture and local beliefs. Centuries ago, a highly learned Buddhist master from Paro Pangbisa, terton Sherub Mebar embarked on a sacred mission to retrieve a golden pillar from the lake Nub Tshonapata. Armed with supernatural powers, the terton (revealer of spiritual treasures) held the lake’s water in his mouth, allowing a team of carpenters to descend and cut the pillar from its depths.
However, greed overtook the carpenters when they saw the gold and other treasures. Ignoring the terton’s instructions and continued chopping beyond the said limit. The terton, sensing their disobedience, murmured in dismay. As the carpenters crossed the line, the lake erupted from his mouth, drowning them.
To appease the enraged lake spirit, the terton dropped the treasures he had collected into the surrounding landscape, forming a series of lakes. When you trek to Nub Tshonapata, you will be greeted by several lakes along the way until you reached the lake. They are named after different treasures terton Sherub Mebar dropped.
This is only one of the many stories that we shared as we pushed ourselves towards our destination. Whether forested or open and rocky, the mountains echo with stories of the past, and encounters with the supernatural and the enigmatic wildlife. Walking the trial listening to or sharing stories and embracing the weather, I learnt that the mountains have a way of tugging at your heartstrings. On the trail I yearned for the comfort of my home and at home, I yearn to return to the mountains.
By Nima, WWF-Bhutan
The article was first published on Tashi Delek, Drukair Inflight magazine, November - December, 2024 edition.